Alpine Stitch

Alpine Stitch Step-by-Step Tutorial (US terms)

What you’ll need

• Smooth, medium-weight yarn (worsted / aran recommended
• Hook size recommended on your yarn label (I usually use one size up if you want a softer drape)
• Scissors and yarn needle for weaving ends
• Optional: stitch marker

Abbreviations (US → UK)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet (US) → dc (UK)
• dc = double crochet (US) → tr (UK)
• FPdc = front post double crochet (US) → FPtr (UK)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• yo = yarn over

How the Alpine Stitch works

The Alpine Stitch creates a raised, peak-and-valley texture by alternating rows of single crochet (sc) and rows that feature front post double crochets worked around stitches two rows below. The repeated sequence (one row of sc, one row of FPdc over two-rows-below + dc filler, repeat) is what builds the alpine, ribbed look.

Chain 24 (an even number). This gives a swatch wide enough to see the pattern clearly.

Row 1 Foundation (establish base of dc):
Ch 24. Work 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (You’ll have 22 dc.) Turn.

Row 2 Single crochet row:
Ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc across. Turn. (22 sc)

Row 3 Alpine texture row (start the FPdc pattern):
Ch 2 (counts as first dc).
FPdc around the dc two rows below (that means wrap your hook around the post of the dc in Row 1),
then dc in the next st.
Repeat to across the row.
End with a dc in the top of the turning chain if needed.
Turn.

Row 4 Single crochet row:
Ch 1, sc in each stitch across. Turn.

Repeat Rows 3–4 until your swatch reaches desired length. After 3–4 repeats you’ll see the textured ridges form the “peaks” are the front posts from Row 3 working over Row 1.

Detailed breakdown of the Alpine (Row 3 technique) slow motion

1. Chain 2 (counts as first dc).
2. Locate the dc from two rows below (Row 1). The post is the vertical body of that dc.
3. Yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around that post (wrap around the post you are not inserting into the top loops).
4. Yo, pull up a loop (you now have 3 loops on the hook from starting the dc: the first yo & pull for FPdc plus the initial ch-2 counts).
5. Yo, pull through the first 2 loops on hook.
6. Yo, pull through the final 2 loops that completes the FPdc.
7. Now work one regular dc into the next stitch (skipping the stitch above the fpdc stitch you just completed).
8. Repeat: FPdc around dc two rows below, dc in next st across.

Notes: some patterns call for chaining 2 at row start and ending with dc in turning chain; others chain 3 either works but be consistent for neat edges.

Edge & turning details

Always chain 2 (or 3 if you prefer taller turning chains) at the start of the FPdc row so the first FPdc sits at the proper height.
On the sc (single crochet) rows, chain 1 at the start. Work a sc into the top of the turning chain so edges remain even.

How to read ahead / keep alignment

The FPdc in Row 3 works around a dc from Row 1. So when you look at your piece, the posts you work around are visible two rows below. This is the key: always work around the dc two rows beneath the current row (not the immediately previous row).
Place a stitch marker in the first post of Row 1 if you have trouble finding the correct post to begin with; remove as you pass it.